Removed the horns yesterday to refinish and found one of the terminals loose. Pulled the cover to tighten the connector and the edge of the fram is broke in pieces. What now?
Removed the horns yesterday to refinish and found one of the terminals loose. Pulled the cover to tighten the connector and the edge of the fram is broke in pieces. What now?
I don't mean to nit pick, but some people don't appear to know this......... the horns are separate devices from the drivers. You have 511B high frequency horns and they don't have terminals, covers, connectors, or a diaphragm...... that's the driver that is bolted to the back of the horn that has all those parts.
What did you decided on your method of refinishing the horns?
Audio_by_Goodwill
Michigan, USA
glass beading for the removal. first I'am taking them to a paint guy to see if the paint can be matched (green). Yes I know the horns and drivers are two pieces assumed everyone would know what I was saying. still wondering what to do about the frams,where to get them (16 ohm).Is this something I can replace myself? Bought new stickers off Ebay and if weather is good this week hope to do the cabs.
Great Plains Audio.still wondering what to do about the frams,where to get them (16 ohm).Is this something I can replace myself?
Great Plains Audio's Homepage
Do some looking around their website, you'll find a very comprehensive instruction sheet covering diaphragm replacement.
Actually, Todd WW has done such an excellent job with the website that i've already found it for you.
http://www.greatplainsaudio.com/SmDrvrDiaRpl.pdf
Not all vegetables make good leaders.
Thanks bowtie, there is a local guy here in KC but I don't know if his stuff is original or aftermarket and from what I've read there is more than one type, aluminum ect. Don't know what I need.
Someone got lazy and didn't paint the bottom of one of the horns orange so original green paint still there. Hope to get them looking original however the stenciled white model # and name (altec) are lost due to being painted over.
Wow - the orange paint is horrible. I guess now every day is holloween. Did you consider filing a police report so they could find the person who is responsible for this criminal behaviour?
I would send the HF drivers back to Great Plains Audio and ask them to recharge the motors and replace the diaphragms.
I like restoring old classics to the exact way they left the factory. However, in this instance, I would glass bead the cast horns to remove all paint and then paint them black not green or white. The bass horns need to be gray IMO.
When you restore them to their former glory they will become a cherished family classic that will remain a gem to enjoy for many decades.
For hifi and critical listening you need 34852's, if you want to regularly blast rock n roll to cop calling SPL's, go with 26421's.
IMO, there's not a lot of difference in sound between those 2 phragms on the 511 horn, but the Pascalite 26421's will withstand considerably more abuse/higher SPL's.
Robert is spot on w/ my opinion here, but this doesn't always fit everyone's budget.I would send the HF drivers back to Great Plains Audio and ask them to recharge the motors and replace the diaphragms.
However, the cost is less than you might imagine. In most cases it's just a wee bit over 2 C notes including return shipping for a pair, unless of course you live in Timbuktu or one or both drivers needs serious labor(misaligned pole, broken screws, etc). The end result is a sonically, and electrically NEW pair of drivers that should perform without issue for another 20, 30, 40, ??? years.
Not all vegetables make good leaders.
You still have some green showing? ...... or are you talking about matching the green of the woofer baskets? Early horns were green, later ones were black.
Well after I see so many "speakers" being advertised by the crossover model number on ebay, or a horn being called by the driver model number, I don't assume anymore.Yes I know the horns and drivers are two pieces assumed everyone would know what I was saying.
Audio_by_Goodwill
Michigan, USA
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